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Picking out the perfect diamond can be as challenging as it is exciting. There are a lot of things to consider when you are shopping for an engagement ring or wedding band. One of the first steps to picking a diamond is deciding which shape is just right. And if you’re unsure, that’s where a diamond shape guide comes in handy.
Often referred to as diamond cuts, diamond shapes are the result of the first step of the cutting process. They are the basic form the rough diamond is in before further cutting and polishing.
There are many popular diamond shapes, and every shape has its own unique qualities. Some people may want to do plenty of research before choosing a shape. Others will go with what their heart wants. Either way, choosing the diamond shape that will take center stage on an engagement ring is a big choice.
Diamond shapes are often referred to as cuts, which can lead to a lot of confusion when comparing stones. It is important to note that often shape and cut are closely linked. A common example is a round (shape) brillant (cut) diamond. There are considerable differences between the terms once you get into the details.
The cut of a diamond involves shaping the diamonds dimensions and creating facets. While a diamonds shape can be consistent, the cut can vary between Poor and Excellent. Cut is one of the 4Cs that consumers can look at when buying a diamond.
Step cut and brilliant cut are two different methods to create facets. Step cuts create rectangular or square shaped facets. In some designs, the graduation of steps create triangular shapes within the stone.
Brilliant cuts have more facets, and they are triangular or kite shaped. Stones with a brilliant cut have more sparkle and fire than step cut diamonds.
Symmetry and proportions are also important factors to a diamond’s cut.
For many diamonds, shape indicates the basic outline of the stone. Most diamond shapes refer to their geometric design (oval diamond, round diamond). Or, an object they resemble (cushion diamond, pear diamond).
There are others that are not as simple to identify. The Asscher diamond gets its name from the craftsman who created the original cut. Marquise diamonds are also called “navette” diamonds, which means “little ship” in French.
A diamond can be just about any shape at all, but there are some shapes that make up the vast majority of the stones on the market. Here are 12 of the most popular diamond styles:
The round brilliant cut diamond is classic and iconic. It is the most popular diamond shape, and for good reason. In fact, it is so beloved that two-thirds of all diamonds purchased are round diamonds. A round cut diamond, when cut optimally, boasts the greatest brilliance and fire of all the cuts. Its 58 facets reflect the most light, giving the round diamond ample sparkle. Round brilliant cut diamonds are a stellar choice for engagement, wedding, and anniversary rings. This is because of their shine and how easy they are to customize in jewelry design.
The name of this shape comes from the fact that this specific cutting technique was originally used on emeralds. This step cut or rectangular shaped diamond has lengthy facets to maximize brilliance. Emerald cut diamonds are one of the most popular diamond shapes. Mostly, for appearing larger than their carat weight would suggest. This makes them a cost-efficient way to get more diamond for your dollar.
The princess cut is another four sided diamond that's high on sparkle due to its brilliant cut. One of the shiniest styles, princess cut diamonds are in many different kinds of jewelry. There is a universal appeal for their shape. Its lower cost usually makes it a great choice for those looking to get the most sparkle with a smaller budget.
The Asscher is the only diamond cut name derived from actual people. Specifically, the Asscher Brothers who introduced them to the world in 1902. This step cut beauty is another square diamond. But, they come with diagonal corners rather than pointed or rounded. A close cousin to the emerald cut diamond, Asscher cut diamonds are slightly more brilliant because of its 58 facets.
Cushion cut diamonds are like Asschers, but with rounded corners instead of diagonal. The general shape is similar to that of a pillow, hence its name. Unlike most square shaped diamonds, the cushion diamond doesn't have a step cut. Rather, it features a brilliant cut. Their shape and cut gives them the ability to produce more fire than other similar stones. However, due to their larger table, clarity may have a lower grade, as inclusions will be more obvious.
Oval cut diamonds feature an elongated shape that helps them stand out. Because of their shape, oval diamonds cover a larger surface area. Due to this, they tend to look bigger than they actually are. If you were to compare a round diamond and an oval diamond of the same carat weight, the oval would look larger. The oval shape offers great durability due to its rounded edges. They are much less likely to snag or chip than a shape with distinct corners. This makes them an excellent choice for not only rings, but all kinds of jewelry.
A pear shaped diamond is much like an oval diamond, but with one pointed end. The shape is difficult to craft, requiring great symmetry. Because of the difficulty of achieving the shape, pear diamonds are less common. Pear shaped diamonds are also well-known for keeping inclusions out of sight. They are often used in engagement rings due to their beauty and balance. However, if you have your heart set on a pear shaped diamond, make sure that the setting protects the chip from future damage.
Heart shaped diamonds are another shape that require precise symmetry. These diamonds are easy to recognize but difficult to shape. The larger the carat, the more obvious the heart shape is. While they are an obvious symbol of love, heart shaped diamonds are not as common as round diamonds. Due to the number of facets and the precision of the cuts, these stones provide incredible sparkle.
Radiant cut diamonds are dazzling, brilliant cut versions of the emerald cut shape. With 70 facets, the radiant cut is slightly less radiant than the round brilliant because the facets aren't as large or optimally placed. This means they don’t provide the kind of brilliance you get from a round cut. However, they definitely don’t lack in shine. This is another diamond that often finds its way onto an engagement ring, as it exhibits the best of both emerald and round cuts.
The trillion diamond is another fancy diamond shape that looks deceptively large. Triangular stones have three even sides and the number of facets can range from 31 to 50. While trillion stones can be center diamonds, they pose a risk of chipping. The setting for trillion stones should protect the corners to minimize damage. More often, this style of diamond appears as accent stones.
This is another cut that is typically used as accent stones, rather than the center diamond. Baguette cut features only 14 facets on average and have a large table or top surface. Because of its shape and low amount of facets, they tend to be slightly cloudy, have less sparkle, and can show more flaws. However, it is possible to find brilliant cut baguette diamonds, which stand apart from the usual step cut baguettes. Brilliant cut baguette diamonds tend to be whiter and have more sparkle.
A blend of oval and pear shape creates the elongated marquise diamond. This stone features pointed ends on each end. As with oval cut, marquise cut stones give the illusion of size and length without a high carat. This cut is not commonly found in engagement rings. The sharp tips are susceptible to chipping, so a proper setting is very important. Also note that marquise diamonds require good symmetry. Poorly cut stones will show a “bow-tie effect” or dark spots in the middle of the gem.
With so much knowledge about diamond shapes, you should feel more comfortable picking out the right gem. If you need help with purchasing an engagement ring, get in touch with our helpful team of experts.
Diamonds & Me is happy to help you find the perfect ring for your special someone.
Do you still have questions? There’s a lot to consider when purchasing an anniversary ring. Here are a few frequently asked questions to help you through the process:
Absolutely. Different shapes will have different average prices. Even two stones cut into the same shape can have different costs due to other factors such as cut, carat weight, color, and clarity.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Everyone will have their own preference when it comes to shape. Some will prefer the timeless emerald cut. Others may love the novelty of pear shaped. If sparkle is what you’re looking for, the round brilliant diamond has an unbeatable shine.
There are a couple of popular diamond shapes that are rectangular, including the emerald and baguette. Radiant, princess, and Asscher cuts can also come in rectangles.
Even amongst these rare stones, the Royal Asscher cut stands out as the rarest. Don’t confuse this with the typical Asscher cut, which has less facets (58 to the Royal’s 74). The standard Asscher cut has a step cut in contrast to the Royal’s brilliant cut.
All diamonds are beautiful, but shapes like pear, marquise, and trillion are usually less in demand.
The perfect engagement ring looks different from one person to the next. However, some diamond shapes are better suited as the center stone to a ring. Round brilliant is a clear favorite, with its classic shape and optimal sparkle. Princess and emerald cut are also popular for engagement rings.
Although it is the most popular, the round brilliant diamond is also the most expensive. This is because the cutting process to achieve the iconic shape wastes a lot of the original diamond material. It is also more expensive due to its popularity and demand.
Prices depend heavily on the cut, color, and clarity of a stone. The cushion cut is generally the least expensive option alongside other rare shapes such as oval and marquise. Cushion and Asscher cuts result in less waste of diamond during the cutting process.
In terms of brilliance, fire, and overall shine, nothing beats the 58 sizable facets of the round brilliant cut.
The round brilliant has the most sparkle. Other diamond cuts known for their sparkle are the radiant cut, cushion cut, oval cut, and marquise cut.
Round versus square is ultimately a personal preference. The most significant way round diamond shapes differ from square is in their cut. Diamonds with round shapes or rounded areas are usually given a brilliant cut. Square shapes get a step cut.
In terms of sparkle, the most finely cut and polished versions of some round diamonds will have more shine.
In the world of diamonds, the meaning of the word brilliant varies depending on context.
On one hand, brilliance is the property of diamonds that enables them to sparkle by reflecting light using its many facets. This means any diamond that shines in the light is essentially brilliant.
Brilliant is also the name of the cutting style used on round shaped diamonds to create triangular shaped facets.
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